Yaku Stapleton SS25 Review
An outstanding debut from one of London's hottest talents
At Yaku's debut show, it became clear that community is the key to his success, marrying the family members he grew up with to the characters and aesthetics of the video games that marked his childhood.
Set at the BFC's brand-new space at 180 Studios, the space was transformed into 4 Legend of Zelda-esque scenes, each involving different members of Yaku's family.
Given the opportunity to immerse his fans and community into his physical world for the first time, Yaku aimed to 'decrease the distance between the world they are building and people's understanding,' vulnerably laying bare his familial relationships for all the (fashion) world to see.
The opening scene, titled Exploration, depicts Yaku's grandfather, who inspired the show, alongside his sisters, Stephanie and Karis, preparing for an 'intellectual battle;' 'poring over ancient scriptures' and 'mapping out their route'. The garments in this scene are the most modern in design, delicately draped in layers, however, they occasionally feel out of place, with the baggy cuts and puffy prints creating a sense of disconnection between the characters and the context of the scene.
The second scene, Reflection, portrays Yaku's father "suspended in the stillness of space," standing before a partially reflective mirror. Two actors, positioned on either side, mirror each other's movements with seamless precision, each gazing into the past or future, guided forward by introspection. Their garments speak volumes, offering insight into the man they represent. One is dressed in leafy summer greens and vibrant lagoon blues, accompanied by colourful creatures on a journey of self-discovery. The other is clad in a hardened aloe bloom orange, his attire coarsened and adapted to the harsh realities of his environment.
The penultimate scene, my personal favourite, titled Combat, showcases his two brothers, Amir and Nathaniel, fighting side by side in "spirited combat," "each strike and parry strengthening not just their bodies, but their bond". Both characters are clad in Yaku's take on sparring uniforms—expertly tailored for dynamic, unrestricted movement. The elegant insectile spinal embellishments on the dresses and the sleek custom-made weapons further immerse us in this meticulously crafted world.
Lastly, we find Yaku’s mother and family members, Ricky and Lorelle, in the heart of the forest, seated patiently among the whispering trees. They cook an uncanny fabric fish over a makeshift fire, their expressions pensive as they contemplate the cyclical nature of life and birth. Adorned in mystical backpack creatures and sharp, vibrant hunting attire—a uniquely Yaku blend of RuneScape and 2001: A Space Odyssey—they draw the audience deeper into this surreal world, leaving us fully immersed in his daunting, video game atmosphere.
On the way out, visitors encounter a thoughtful gesture: three ancient-looking books, each posing a different question—'Who are you?', 'Who were you?', and 'Who will you be?' These prompts reinforce the show’s overarching themes of self-reflection and personal growth, leaving a lasting impression.
Congratulations to Yaku, Anastasiya, and the rest of the team on an outstanding show. February can't come soon enough.
